Hamilton College Community Farm
Frequent cultivation serves both to prevent weeds from growing out of control and to loosen and aerate the soil. Cultivation should begin as soon as seeds emerge from the soil or following transplanting. For slow-germinating seeds such as carrots, it is important to cultivate well before planting because you will not be able to for nearly a month (although a flame-weeder can be used before the seeds emerge).
The Stirrup hoe and the Collinear hoe are both designed to be used without bending over: a vertical posture is efficient and saves your back. The idea with both is to cut the weeds’ stem at or just below the surface of the ground, which is enough to kill the roots in most plants. Care should be exercised not to cut the delicate stems of your seedlings while attacking the weeds, as both tools are quite sharp.
A metal file or blade sharpener should be used occasionally to sharpen both Collinear and Stirrup hoes. While sharpening, maintain a constant angle and do not take off more metal than necessary. With a file, sharpening should take no longer than 30 seconds. Blades for both are replaceable from Johnny’s Seeds. Do not use the tools if the blade is loose or misadjusted, as this will cause the blade to break.
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Tool Dude’s Blog
There are a number of weeding tools offered by Johnny’s, each with their own unique application. Using the right tool for the right job not only makes the work faster and more efficient, but the ergonomic advantages they sometimes offer can even make the work somewhat enjoyable. Sceptical? Let’s take a look.
The Stirrup Hoe
Our most popular hoe, hands down. Why? Efficiency and versatility. This is a root-slicing hoe that is designed to cut on the forward and reverse stroke. It is rugged enough to take on more mature weeds yet has a rounded blade, allowing the user to weed very close to the crop without damage. This is a great all-around hoe that can literally cover some ground in a hurry. It is especially adept at inter-row weeding and keeping the footpath under control. Stirrup Hoes come in three sizes – 3-1/4″, 5″, and 7″ wide and sport a beefier handle to support the extra stress involved with the push stroke.
|Mark Guzzi hoes a row at Peacemeal Farm in Dixmont, ME.
Photo courtesy, Eric Gallandt, University of Maine.
The Collinear Hoe
Also, one of our all-time most popular hoes, the Collinear Hoe is very unique. Eliot Coleman designed it with a sharp, rectangular blade that lays flat against (or collinear) with the ground. It is a type of ‘draw hoe’ because it is pulled toward the user. Doing so, slices weeds off just below the soil surface, leaving them to whither and die in the sun. It is very versatile and especially effective in and around low lying foliage on crops like head lettuce. It is also designed with ergonomics at its very inception. The idea was to create a hoe that could be used in a vertical stance, to reduce lower back strain. The collinear hoe is therefore used with a thumbs-up grip, much as you would a kitchen broom. It can be used in a back and forth motion in lighter weed pressure or more aggressively as a draw hoe on more mature weeds. There are three versions of this tool – 3-3/4″ and 7″ fixed blade models and a 7″ model with a replaceable blade.
|This series of photos courtesy Jean-Martin Fortier,
Les Jardins de le Grelinette, St. Armand, Quebec.
The Wire Weeder
This is a highly ergonomic weeder designed by Eliot Coleman, with surgical precision in its application. Like the Collinear Hoes, it is designed to be used with a straight back and both thumbs up. It is great for emerging weeds, especially in and around younger crops or closely-spaced crops, where clumsiness just will not do. It is somewhat blunt, so it is designed not to cut through the weeds, but to overturn them, exposing their roots to the sun. There is also a short-handled version of this tool.
|Back & forth operation.|
This tool may be used in a back and forth motion, or simply dragged through the soil if weeds are just emerging. You will see above that the user is holding it at a slight angle to fit between these closely spaced crops.
|Simply dragging the weeder through the soil.|
The Trapezoid Hoe
This is our favorite for mid-sized weeds. It is a traditional chopping hoe with a unique trapezoidal shape. The b eveled blade is angled just enough to get under the edges of plants. Sharp corners tackle stubborn roots. The replaceable spring steel blade allows easy renewal after multiple seasons of vigorous use.
The Cobrahead Long-handled Weeder/Cultivator
The curved blade of this tool acts like a steel fingernail. It weeds, cultivates, digs, furrows, and plants with ease. It works well in almost any soil. The blade is set in place with Allen screws, allowing easy replacement.
The 3-Tooth Cultivator
This tool was designed by Eliot Coleman to have a push-pull action for incorporating compost and fertilizer, and loosening soil. What’s that got to do with weeding? Well, it can also be used for cultivating between rows in footpaths and is especially effective on emerging weed seedlings in those areas as the cultivating action of its teeth act to bury those young plants, smothering them.
|A vigorous back & forth motion is used to cultivate.|
The Hand Hoe
Also known as the Nejiri Gama Hand Hoe, this low-cost lightweight tool becomes an extremely sharp and precise extension of the user’s arm when in use. It is by far, our best-selling small hand tool. It sports a D-shaped high-carbon steel blade, welded to a steel shank, set in a wooden handle. These are great low-cost tools for growers to equip their entire farm crew with for detailed in-row weeding in the field.
The Lucko Wire Weeder
This tool was recommended to us by Paul and Alison Wiediger of Au Naturel Farm in Kentucky. The Wiedigers prefer this European-made tool for detailed weeding in their hoophouses. The round wire design creates a business end of the tool that won’t cut drip tape but will easily upend young weed seedlings. It has a narrow end for weeding between closely spaced crops like dense plantings of baby leaf lettuce and a wider end to cover more ground in open areas.
The Wire Weeder
The short-handled version of one of Eliot Coleman’s favorite tools, it is perfect for in-row weeding of closely spaced crops like salad mix, carrots and onions, as well as perennial flowers and herbs.
The Spring Tine Cultivator
Three round, spring-steel tines with a wooden handle. This light-weight tool feels great when cultivating tight areas. It’s spring tines scratch the soil just enough to uproot smaller weeds while loosening the surface soil, allowing water and oxygen to penetrate.
The Ho-Mi EZ Digger
This is also known as the traditional Korean hand plow and dates back over 5000 years. It has multiple curves in its forged design that impart strength as well as function. It can be used to dig, furrow, weed, cover seed, transplant seedlings, and loosen, level, cultivate, and mound soil.
The Cobrahead Weeder & Cultivator
The short handled version of the Cobrahead described above. The tough, sharp steel blade and comfortable handle make fast work of tedious garden chores. Used to weed, cultivate, make small furrows, and even as a mini trowel for small transplants.
Thermal Weed Control:
Flame weeding is also a very effective method of organic weed control. There are two main methods.
Spot Flame Weeding
Spot flaming is done most often at the ends of rows, and in the footpaths to control weeds after a crop is established. It is not necessary to char or burn the weeds. The flame need only overheat the tissues of the plants and break the cell tissues to be effective (visually, the plants will wilt).
Pre-emergence Weed Control
This is a practice that many farmers swear by, especially for dense, hard to weed crops like baby leaf lettuce or greens. In this method, the bed is prepped for planting a couple weeks prior to seeding and weeds are allowed to grow. Just before seeding and without tilling or disturbing it, the grower will flame the bed, killing any weeds that have started to grow and then seed into a so-called ‘stale bed’. After that, the crop should come up nearly weed-free. The labor and fuel costs associated with flaming are usually far less than the cost to hand weed these dense beds or cull out weeds in the wash water, so the method pays for itself.
Other general notes about mechanical weeding:
Weeding is most effectively done when the weeds are young and in the morning on a sunny day. Together, those two tactics will result in the highest mortality rate, reducing subsequent weeding. Young weeds are simply easier to kill and all weeds are easier to kill when the afternoon sun is available to dessicate their disturbed foliage and roots.
Also, although there seems to be an unending supply, there really are just so many weed seeds available in the ‘weed seed bank’ – that collection of weed seeds lying dormant in your soil, awaiting favorable conditions to germinate and cause you problems. Weeding while the weeds are young and have not gone to seed, works to effectively deplete the weed seed bank and eventually will result in relatively weed-free conditions. But, you have to be diligent and proactive in order to ever achieve that.
Thanks for reading and best of luck in your own personal battle against weeds.
Tools & Supplies Manager